Zell am See is a lakeside market town rather than a ski village, set on the western shore of the Zeller See with the Schmittenhöhe rising straight behind it and the glaciated peaks of the Hohe Tauern across the valley. It has an old centre of church, town square and pedestrian lanes, a long history as a summer resort for the lake, and one of the earliest cable cars in Austria. It is busy and international, and at Christmas the town and the lakeshore are as much the setting as the mountain.
The Schmitten suits intermediates and families: sunny, well-groomed runs across a broad ridge, several long descents back to the valley, a gentle learning area and a children's park near the top, with a handful of steeper black runs for stronger skiers. The Kitzsteinhorn glacier above Kaprun is a short bus ride away on the same regional pass, and a gondola connects the Schmitten to the large Saalbach circuit next door. The trade-off at Christmas is altitude. The town sits low and the Schmitten tops out well below the high-Alpine resorts, so a mild December can leave the lower slopes and the valley runs relying on man-made snow, with the glacier as the fallback for snow-sure skiing.
Christmas in Zell am See
Very good. The Star Advent market fills the town square from 18 November to 23 December 2026, open Wednesday to Sunday from 3 pm to 9 pm, with craft stalls, music and children's events, and floating illuminated stars are set out on the lake. The tourist board also runs a free musical Star Advent walking tour from the town square through the old town to the lakeshore. The market closes on 23 December, so Christmas week itself relies on the town's lights and the lakeside rather than a full programme.
Our Christmas atmosphere rating: 4 out of 5
Excellent. The old town and lakeshore promenade, the Freizeitzentrum with its indoor pool, sauna and ice rink, and the Tauern Spa in neighbouring Kaprun give plenty to do off the slopes, and the Schmittenhöhebahn takes non-skiers up for the view and winter walks.